Week 4 - Thursday - Tobermory

Yesterday was a bit of a whistle stop tour of Mull. Iona - tick, Staffa - tick, Tobermory - tick, Award winning chip van - tick!

Once through the Sound of Iona we headed on for Staffa. If you don't know, Staffa is an island off Mull which has amazing rock formations and the famous Fingall's cave.

The island has a very square shape and looks like it is held up by columns. These are caused by a static lava flow - from the Mull volcanic centre - that cools and forms into hexagonal basalt columns (see, I was listening Mark!)

Mark did Geology at university and has been educating me during the trip.

Once we had motored around Staffa, we then pushed on to Tobermory.

I phoned ahead to check what time the chippy closed, and we reckoned that we could just make it. We turned the engine up to warp factor 10 ( which actually means 5 mph!) and stopped towing the dinghy (to reduce drag).

We made it to the Chip Van in time and also met up with Ju and Leah (my Sister in law and niece.)

It was great to catch up and amazing (to a townie) how they knew everyone that we passed.

Our visit was very milk oriented(!) which also demonstrated the community spirit here.

The first example was that Ju needed milk for tea, so popped round to a neighbour with a jug. When did that last happen in Altrincham!

The second was based on our need to use frozen milk in our cooler box. We bought the milk but Ju's freezer was full. So she called on another neighbour, who kindly offered to allow us to use hers.

I can certainly see the appeal of small community life.

It is raining today - first time for 2 weeks - so we will look around here then dawdle down to Oban.

Iona

Just been through the Sound of Iona after a very misty passage across from Oronsay.

A bit tedious although we did see a colony of seals and almost ran
one over! He was not pleased with us, but we got a great view of him as he dived in disgust!

The St columba cathedral looks very impressive on such a small place Iona.

Now on the way to Staffa. We will probably push on to Tobermory after that.

Week 4 - Wednesday - Oronsay

Long day yesterday, leaving Port Ellen at 06:00 to get through the Sound of Jura before the tide turned.

The Sound is a beautiful place, with some distilleries and life on the Islay side but nothing on the Jura side except the Paps - 3 impressive mountains.

After a lunch stop in Loch Tarbert we found some wind and had a good sail across to Oronsay.

We are anchored in a remote bay, on an island which only has 7 people and us! Amazing sand here, it is completely white.

The plan was to go ashore, walk to the other side to look at the Priory and have a BBQ on the beach.

We walked along a track then set off across the moor. As the sea mist rolled in, we both thought of the same thing - the film American Werewolf in London. You may remember the two lads who strayed off the path against advice and were ripped apart by a Werewolf!

We started to walk a little faster, while thinking of other films, like The Whicker Man and Deliverance!

Anyway, when we did meet the locals they were very friendly, much to our relief!

Turns out that the RSPB run the farm here - protecting the birds such as the Choughs that are currently nesting.

Back at the beach with a disposable BBQ; we were defeated yet again by the midges and ended up eating pasta on the boat.

After a very rolley night at anchor, (which makes everything sway and make annoying noises) we are off to Staffa and Fingal's cave.

Week 4 - Tuesday - Celidh Update

Well, yesterday was a very whisky orientated day.

We set off in the morning for the Bowmore distillery but the tide was against us, so we gave up and came back. Instead we motored in to the tiny rocky bay in front of the Langavulen distillery. We were very proud of ourselves, as it was a difficult bit of navigation, entering through 2 narrow poles. ( see photo)

This week is the Islay Whisky Festival with lots of events.

We went to the Whisky Tasting Celidh expecting it to be full of locals dancing, with a bit of tasting thrown in. As it turns out it was more about overseas visitors showing off how good they were at smelling whisky!

You had to 'nose' 11 whiskys and identify which distillery they came from. Mark and I managed 1 right answer between us!

You will be interested to know that the Japanese are best ( 4 wins in a row) followed by Sweden, Canada, Hong Kong, Holland and Germany. Imagine an evening spent with whisky drinking train spotters wearing tee shirts with 'amusing' slogans and that about sums it up!

Next came the full range of Scottish tourist entertainment: folk music, Gaelic music (very good) Gaelic dancing, bagpipes and a weird one with dancers in sailor suits (very bad).

Finally came the Celidh, which was a little awkward as the men outnumbered the women by 3 to 1.

I was determine to dance and after Mark refused to do the Gay Gordons with me (!) I went off in search of a dance partner.

You may be surprised to hear that my ability to find a female to dance with me has not improved over the last 35 years and my quest ended in complete failure! Nothing changes.

Early start today, off to Coronsay.

Midge Update

Just sitting on a step waiting for the loo.

Counted my bites - 68!

Week 4 - Monday - Islay

It was good to get away from Crinan yesterday. It was as great place but we spent 4 days in the canal and it was starting to feel a bit claustrophobic.

We had 3 hours of wind then motored for the rest of the day in very hot, still conditions.

We had a quick look at Craighouse on Jura but did not fancy staying there so carried on to Islay. It was an 11 hour day but worth the trip

We are now moored up in Port Ellen, on a small island that has 7 Distilleries.

There is a festival week and we have been looking at the list of events. As Mark and I are such keen dancers (!) then we are going to try the whisky tasting Celidh this evening.

I started counting my bites this morning but gave up after 20! I have one below the hair line - that is a first for me! Griff ( who is coming next week) is getting worried about the midges and is currently purchasing a full chemical warfare suit and industrial strength chemicals!

We learnt the locals secret for dealing with the midges; they all use an Avon cream called: Skin So Soft. It is not a midge spray but for done reason the little beasties are repelled by it. Not sure how Avon would feel about this but I will test it out.

Not sure about today's plan yet.

Week 4 - Sunday - Midges

Last night was the first really bad one for midges.

We are moored next to a small wood, so the boat has been covered in plant debris and different types of wildlife.

It is probably the worst place for midges and last night we were surrounded.

As I was folding away the bike outside, I could feel small bites being delivered all over my skin; it really was very unpleasant.

The secret is to keep the hatches all closed, getting in and out of the boat as quickly as possible. Not great though when it is so hot.

You can't avoid getting them in the boat, so before bed time we tried kill as many as possible. Turn a single light on and wait. It's an impossible task to get them all though - they just keep coming. We dispatched as many as we could until getting bored, then into bed and sheets over your head!

They are still around this morning - it is definitely time to move on.

Mark is walking a little strangely today after his 7 mile bike ride last night - the furthest he has cycled for about 20 years!

Off Distillery hunting today to Jura and Islay. I will post the next Blog when I can, not sure about phone reception over there.

Improvisation!

Mark C arrived safely and is currently leaving his car in Lochgilphead and is cycling back along the canal.

We scouted suitable parking spots earlier and went into the local chippy. Deep fried haggis with curry sauce - what more could you want.

While he is away, I have taken the chance to shower - which could be the last time for a week! I also washed my clothes while in the shower but had to find a way to dry them ( or walk back dripping wet)

Anyone who knows me will be aware that I like improvising - using items for a purpose that they were not intended.

The photo says it all - I was most pleased with myself!

Off to Jura tomorrow morning, through the sea loch and onto the remote parts of Scotland.

Week 4 - Saturday - Crinan

Well I am on my own today, waiting for Mark Charlesworth to arrive at tea time. Paul headed back last night, so I am hoping that he arrived safely.

Big day - Vanessa's birthday. Happy Birthday and I hope that Abigail has remembered where I left the presents for you!

It's a day of jobs for me and hopefully I will also manage to fit in a bike ride. Need to clean the boat, take on water, repair the locker hinges and clean out the bilges (yet again!). Have given up trying to find the freshwater leak!

The one job that I did manage yesterday was to get my washing done. There is a boat yard here which has a washing machine and drier in a shed around the back of the buildings.

I took my washing there yesterday while Paul had gone to pick up his car. As there was no one around, I decided that I could also wash the pants and shirt that I was wearing (and just put my shorts on). I stripped off just as a two ladies came round the corner - what are the chances of that happening at the back of a boatyard! Not sure who was most shocked - me or them. I tried to act nonchalantly, while they just said hello and walked on. Not much to see here I guess!

I have just had breakfast and have hit on yet another way of saving on washing up and pans. I have found that you can boil eggs in the kettle. Easy to get them in but not so easy to get them out again!

We will be off to Islay and Jura tomorrow hopefully, but I suspect that this may be the last Blog for a while as we wont have internet connection.

Thank you for reading the Blog and I will update when I can.

Crinan

Well, it's been a day of adventure for sure!

We went through the locks in tandem with a lovely French couple. They handled their boat in the opposite ( but more sensible) way to the average Brit i.e. the wife steered the boat while the husband did all the heavy rope pulling!

On the advice of the lock keeper we stopped in a private mooring just short of Crinan , in a great spot to lay up until Mark C arrives and we leave on Sunday. "Don't worry," said the lock keeper," I have never seen the owner here. "

After trips to the launderette and a ride on my Bickerton bike, I returned to the mooring to find a very cross owner rafted up to me. Fair enough; he and his wife had had a very long day's sail and just wanted to moor up and go home.

At this point the lock keeper cycled past and stopped to help.

"I thought you said that you had never seen a boat on this pontoon," said I. "I haven't," said the lock keeper. "How long have you worked here," said I. " This is my first day" said the Lock keeper!!

Anyway, I was very embarrassed, apologised profusely to the owner and we moved the boat closer to lock 14.

As we tied up, the mooring owner arrived on the Bickerton (I had left it behind to pick up later.)

Anyway it turns out that he is looking to buy a folding cycle and we had a good old chat. He was a really lovely chap and once we had made friends, he gave me loads of great advice about places to visit.

Amazing how a difficult situation turned into a great experience.

Lots of other things happened: Paul bought me a Scottish Courtesy flag, the only steam Puffer boat in the world came past and I used a phone box for the first time in 20 years!

I must tell you about my experience in the Launderette, but that can wait.

Week 3 - Friday - Crinan canal part 2

Another lovely morning here.

Plan is to go through the remaining 10 locks today and into the canal basin this evening.

It is very strange going along a canal in a sailing boat, especially when the depth gauge reads less than the draught of the boat I.e. we should be touching the bottom!

Paul had a bit of a midge infestation in his bunk last night and is now watching his skin to assess if they did any damage! I suspect it will get worse as we move further North.

Met a group yesterday sailing round britain in a dinghy(!) in aid of the Ellen Mcarthur trust. Makes our efforts seem weedy in comparison.

Breakfast now, and then off we go.

Week 3 - Thursday - Crinan canal

Today's adventure was a trip along the Crinan canal; or to be accurate, half of the canal.

We stocked up with supplies before we left Ardrishaig and found a very nice man in a boatyard who sold us some washers for the engine. At last, no more diesel leaking under the engine!

As it is so hot here, we accepted the offer of the lock keepers to manage the gates (and do all the hard work!) - so we just had to hold the ropes as we went through 4 locks.

We made a pit stop next to a road so that I could get fuel from the petrol station. It did involve a precarious climb down a steep bank but I managed to avoid falling in the stream at the bottom! They were amused that I had a lifejacket on and were also kind enough to ignore the fact that I had not washed since Saturday!

Anyway I did everyone a favour and showered tonight!

Moored up in Cairn Baan and through the rest of the canal tomorrow.

Oystercatcher Pub

Otter spit really is a beautiful place, with trees, a long sandy beach and the welcoming Oystercatcher pub.

It is a lovely building, which does great ale, food, has a purpose built jetty for dinghies, 15 free moorings and wi-fi.

There is only one problem with the Oystercatcher pub................ it does not open on a Wednesday!

After tea, we sat on the boat watching the pub front door through binoculars, waiting for it to open. Paul was like a caged tiger, ready to jump into the dinghy and row ashore at the first sign of life!

Other boats arrived; people went below for showers, put on their best clothes, pumped up their dinghies' and then joined us in the vigil - staring expectantly at the door through binoculars.

Would it open at 18:00, 18:30, 19:00? A car arrived and we all got excited; until it disgorged a family who wandered up the beach. 19:30, 20:00 - surely it would open soon.

More boats arrived and the couple next to us rowed ashore. They must know something that we don't? Once there, they approached the pub; with many pairs of binoculars keenly trained on their backs!

They stared at the door, walked back to the dinghy, rowed to their boat and motored off into the mist.

Finally, we all accepted our fate - no pub tonight! Boats headed away reluctantly and the rest of us went below to see if we had any booze left in the back of a cupboard somewhere.

This sailing business really is not as much fun as it appears!

Baby products!

Great sail today - it was perfect wind and we explored more of Loch Fyne; before coming back to Otters Point and the lovely pub here.

It's been a day of repairs as ever: water in fuel filter, gunge in water filter, diesel under the engine and our old friend - fresh water in the bilge..............aghhhhhhhhhhh - where is it coming from?

I have also realised how dependent we are on baby products on the boat:

Baby oil for the depth guage
Nappies to clean up oil
Baby wipes to replace showers
Vaseline to moisten my dry lips!

We have run out of it all, so I expect a very odd look when I go into the local store tomorrow!

Beautiful evening here, we had tea in the cockpit. The eagle eyed will spot mushy peas - lovely!

Week 3 - Wednesday - Lochgair

I woke early this morning, after a restless night where I had a bad dream.

It's the one that many people have I suspect, where you find yourself in an exam having done no revision and not recognising any of the questions.

It takes me back to 1981, Camp Hill school and Physics taught by 'Groucho' Goodwin!

This was prompted by the fact that Abigail starts her written A levels today. She won't have the same problem though, as I know that she has worked hard and will do well.

I will be thinking about you this morning Abs and wishing you luck.

We moored in Loch Gair last night. It is a very pretty bay but seems to be ignored by fellow sailors.

We discovered why when we tried to get to the pub. There is no jetty and the bay is surrounded by a muddy shoreline covered with millions of mussel shells. This makes it very hard to get ashore.

We managed it finally by scrambling up
the side of a hydro-electric station, ignoring the various warnings of 'keep out,' 30,000 volts and instant death!

Just had a scare ...........1,000's of gallons of water now pouring from the hydro-electric station at the spot where we got out of the dinghy!

Further exploring of Loch Fyne today, then back to Otter Point in preparation for the Crinan canal tomorrow.

Home cinema

When we were in Tighnabruaich today we saw signs for a mobile cinema. It's an hgv that comes round to remote villages and show the latest films in the trailer.

Inspired by this, we have decided to have a film night on the boat - using our own mobile cinema!

Surround sound through the boat speakers and please note the strategic use of the whisky box up hold up the computer!

"what happens in Vegas" is the choice - just hope that I stay awake long enough to finish it!

Loch Fyne

We are currently heading up Loch Fyne in search of a mooring and hopefully a shower somewhere. Things are getting a little ripe around here!

You will be pleased to hear that we found our baby oil, which has made both Paul and I very happy! What did we use it for?..............The depth gauge needs to sit in a bath of oil and baby oil is the best option!

Actually it has not worked, as the gauge still has a mind of it's own. Very disconcerting when it reads 3 feet when in 65m of water!

I enclose a photo of my life jacket which Paul believes suits me rather well (if you read the writing on the red tag!)

Week 3 - Tuesday - Kames to Upper Loch Fyne

Am in my bunk after an unusual night...... for the first time since I left Pwllheli, my sleeping bag was actually too hot! Warm temperatures are here for a while I hope.

In this lovely weather we are seeing Scotland at it's best. It really is a fantastic place for sailing, and we haven't even scratched the surface yet.

We moored last night on a buoy belonging to the Kames hotel. We obviously popped across in the dinghy for a quick tot and to pay for use of the buoy. We bought some drinks and when I asked how much we owed for the mooring the barman said that the price of the drinks covered it!

Amazing. One thing for sure, we won't be getting any free mooring when we reach the South Coast!

Today's plan is to head up Loch Fyne and see how far we get before anchoring for the night. The famous restaurant is at the top, but we may not get that far.

Top priority this morning is to find some baby oil...........will tell you more later!

Week 3 - Monday - Arran to kyles of bute

It has been a tough day today (!) - getting provisions in Arran, sailing in the sun and now sitting in the pub overlooking the kyles of bute.

The photos tell it all!

Some extra photos from Week 2

Captain Rusty checks his bilges

Sunrise in Kirkcudbight "I love the smell of diesel in the morning.  It smells like victory"

Captain Rusty auditions for the new Fish Fingers campaign

"Two go to Tarbert"

Tarbert harbour

The epic journey home (ferry from Claonig to Lochranza) shared with a party of chilly Dutch golfers and a small party of Canadians from Clagary who were doing a break-neck speed tour of west Scotland and had to be on Arran by 09:30 for their tour.  Precision timing needed.

At last.........!

Shepherds pie!!

Week 3 - Monday

Week 3 - Monday - Loch Ranza

We wake up this morning on a mooring buoy  in Loch Ranza, on the isle of Arran.

We arrived last night and for the first time we were able to eat outside. The original plan was to eat Paul's homemade shepherds pie. However it was still frozen due to an administrative error i.e. we forgot to get it out of the fridge until midday!

We did come up with a plan to defrost it faster, which involved putting the containers out on deck in the sun as we sailed along. The only problem was that each time we tacked the sails, we also had to tack the pies (!) to avoid them sliding onto the floor. We soon got bored and gave up!

Pasta Surprise (tuna!) sufficed instead.

We then pumped up the dinghy and rowed across to the pub. It was a nice place but did seem to have a large number of drunk people in it.

Had our first encounter with the dreaded midges, but hopefully got away with it. Paul has bought me a full head mosquito net - perhaps an improvement because you can't see my horrible beard through it!

In case you wondered the beard is growing well but itching like mad. However I will persevere, because without it I will never be able to persuade people to call me Captain Rusty - which is the main objective of the trip!

Off to Kames today, which is close to the Kyles of Bute.

Week One Photos

Paul F's photos from week one...

Pwllheli - just before departure. 

 Typical.

 Bardsey Sound - you need to have been there!

 Peel Castle - on St. Patrick's Isle.

 Storm-bound in Peel.

 The Laxey Wheel.

Snaefell - top of Isle of Man, with a view of all countries around the Irish Sea.

 Storm-bound in Peel, believe it or not. Crusoe Too is in the centre with the wind generator.